generalPhysical Geography

Why there should be more surfer geologists

Surfers the world over have raved over a section of the California coast called The Mavericks. Now scientists know why. Geologists mapping the ocean floor have found the clear indication of what makes those waves so darn legendary. A nice ramp on the floor combined with a couple of deep troughs on either side allow the waves to get large and stable – the perfect combo for surfing. It’s kinda like nature’s water park.

One thought on “Why there should be more surfer geologists

  1. There are plenty of reasons to be a surfer/geologist! I think Dave Sandwell (satellite altimetry guy at Scripps) had a catalog of them at one point. It looks like Sandwell even teaches an oceanography course on surfing: http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps/

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