Why there should be more surfer geologists

Surfers the world over have raved over a section of the California coast called The Mavericks. Now scientists know why. Geologists mapping the ocean floor have found the clear indication of what makes those waves so darn legendary. A nice ramp on the floor combined with a couple of deep troughs on either side allow the waves to get large and stable – the perfect combo for surfing. It’s kinda like nature’s water park.

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